Private Label Trade Names on American Pocket Watches: The Non-Magnetic Watch Company: Part 33: 1887 Grade List

The Geneva Non-Magnetic Watch Company published an early grade list in the December 1887 issue of the Jewelers’ Circular and Horological Review, featuring six grades in two primary models.

The “Bornand” (speculative) model was offered in two grades:

No. 61 – Fine Nickel Movement; 20 fine Ruby Jewels; Centre Jeweled; Exposed Pallets; Double Roller and Cap Jeweled Escapement; Double Sunk Dial; Adjusted to Temperature, Isochronism and six positions.

No. 62 – Fine Nickel Movement; 18 Ruby Jewels; Centre Jeweled; Exposed Pallets; Double Roller Escapement; Escape Wheel Cap Jeweled; Adjusted to Temperature, Isochronism and four positions.  

The key differences between these grades was the jeweling (20 jewels vs. 18 jewels) and the positional adjustments (six positions vs. four positions).

The “Badollet” Model (“Model 1” in material catalogs) was offered in four grades:

No. 71 – Best Quality Nickel Movement; 20 finest quality Ruby Jewels in gold settings; Jeweled Centre; Exposed Pallets; Double Roller and Full Cap Jeweled Escapement; Accurately Adjusted to Temperature, Isochronism and six positions; Patent Regulator; Double Sunk Dial; finely finished throughout.

No. 72 – Fine Nickel Movement; 18 fine Ruby Jewels in gold settings; Centre Jeweled; Exposed Pallets; Double Roller Escapement; Escape Wheel Cap Jeweled; Adjusted to Temperature, Isochronism and four positions; Patent Regulator. 

No. 73 – Nickel Movement; 16 Ruby Jewels in settings; Exposed Pallets; Double Roller Escapement; Adjusted to Temperature, Isochronism and two positions; Patent Regulator.

No. 74 – Nickel Movement; 15 Ruby Jewels; Exposed Pallets; Double Roller Escapement; Adjusted to Temperature and Isochrons; Patent Regulator. 

Grade No. 71 was the only grade described with a double-sunk dial, but surviving examples of Grade No. 72 support that both grades were fitted with this premium feature. Grade No. 73 and No. 74 were fitted with single-sunk dials.

The key differences between the Model 2 grades was the dial type, jeweling (20/18/16/15 jewels), jewel setting material (gold vs. composition), and positional adjustments (six/four/two/zero positions).