True Jewel Settings on Waltham’s Model 1857

To contrast the recent posts related to the practice of faux jewel settings, this image represents true jewel settings on a Waltham Model 1857 Appleton, Tracy & Co. grade.

A close inspection reveals the material composition of the jewel settings is clearly distinguished from the plate gilding. This indicates the settings were manufactured as individual pieces and the jewels were fitted in the settings prior to being installed in the plate.

Movements that feature this extra effort were generally jeweled in pairs, rather than the top-plate jeweling we recently evaluated with the eleven jewel P.S. Bartlett movement.

However, it is always advisable to verify the jeweling under the dial when in doubt.