Illustrated Guide to Seth Thomas Private Label and Named Grade Pocket Watches
(A guest post by Jonathan Luysterborghs) What is a Private Label pocket watch? How can we know which Private Label pocket watches were made by Seth Thomas? In which models, grades, and jewel counts were the various Seth Thomas Private Label watches manufactured? Who placed the special orders that led to the production of the various Seth Thomas Private Label pocket watches?
The Pocket Watch Database is an excellent resource for exploring and discovering the answers to these questions about the variety of Private Label pocket watches manufactured by Seth Thomas between 1885 and 1915. In addition to the vast historical research provided by the Pocket Watch Database’s founder, Nathan Moore, there is a wealth of information to be gained by viewing, reading, and analyzing the “Collection View” pages for individual watches posted to the database by collectors from around the world.
Many of the answers to our questions were originally presented in retailers’ catalogs and advertisements, Seth Thomas catalogs and price lists, and the guides published by horologists during the years, 1885-1915, that Seth Thomas was actively manufacturing and marketing pocket watches. Other guides, published after Seth Thomas pocket watch production ceased, provide us with access to the research of others who had interest in identifying, cataloging, and describing the detailed characteristics of Seth Thomas pocket watches as well as those produced by other manufacturers, and in some instances identifying who the wholesaler or retailer was who had special ordered private label pocket watches.
Private Label pocket watches have also been referred to as “Trade Name” watches, “Named Grade” watches, or “Jeweler’s Contract” watches. The Pocket Watch Database Reference Library informs us of what is meant by the term “Private Label”:
“Modern collectors use the term “private label” to refer to any watch that was manufactured with custom markings or finishing to fulfill a special order. In original advertisements and materials, manufacturers generally offered these “Special Named” movements free of charge and offered special named dials for a small fee. “
Some Seth Thomas Private Label watches have the Private Label marked on the both the dial and the movement, others may have it marked on the movement only, and others may have it marked on the dial only. These choices were made by the individual customers who contracted with Seth Thomas to make them.
“Named Grade” watches, while also listed and depicted in this article, include only the trade name watches that are a part of a manufacturer’s standard production and are sold by the manufacturer. Private Label watches, on the other hand, are sold by the customer who contracted with the manufacturer to have them made. The named grade pocket watches manufactured and sold by Seth Thomas only include Centennial, Century, Henry Molineux, and Maiden Lane. Within the Century grade there are many private labels including “Century U.S.A.” which was manufactured for Sears, Roebuck & Company.
Within the Seth Thomas pocket watch production, there were also many series of watches. A Seth Thomas “series” is not a Seth Thomas “grade” or a Seth Thomas “private label.” The watches within the Seth Thomas series are assigned Seth Thomas grade numbers. These series included “First Series” which was Model 1, “Second Series” which was Model 3, “Third Series” which was Model 2, “Fourth Series” which was Model 4, and “Eagle Series”. The Eagle Series was divided into “Eagle Series – Old Model,” which included Model 6 and Model 7, and “Eagle Series – New Model,” which included Model 8 and Model 9. The Eagle Series also included the 6-size Model 15, Model 16, and Model 17. Within the Eagle Series, there are many private labels, including Diamond Watch Company, Empire State Watch Company, and Yale Watch Company, to name just a few.
One hundred fifteen (115) private label Seth Thomas pocket watches, many produced in multiple variations, are identified and described in “American Pocket Watches: Identification and Price Guide” Revised 1999, by Roy Ehrhardt & William “Bill” Meggers. Despite a number of omissions and errors, this is the most comprehensive resource in identifying what Seth Thomas made during its years of manufacturing pocket watches and what those watches looked like. A list of those one hundred fifteen (115) Seth Thomas Private Labels may be seen in the NOTES at the end of this article. It is not simple to digest; but it is a “must own” volume for Seth Thomas pocket watch collectors.
The “Complete Price Guide to Watches” 2012 Edition, by Richard E. Gilbert and Cooksey Shugart provides a wealth of detailed information in its ten pages dedicated to Seth Thomas pocket watches.
“Seth Thomas Watches 1885—1915,” compiled by Chris H. Bailey in 1981 and published by the American Clock & Watch Museum, Inc. gives us access to the earliest documentation of Seth Thomas pocket watch production. This document serves as the North Star of all legitimate subsequent Seth Thomas research efforts.
The “Encyclopedia and Price Guide of American Pocket Watches Volume 1” by Roy Erhrhadt contains an amazing amount of valuable information about Seth Thomas pocket watches in general, and about private label pocket watches especially. This is an important book for any serious Seth Thomas pocket watch collector to own.
The importance of making historical background information freely available to all who have interest in the roots of the American clock and watch industry cannot be overstated. Information that is not freely shared not only confounds the research of present day horologists; but will likely become information forever lost to the future generations of horologists.
The Pocket Watch Database, serving as a collective repository for the studies and research of many, is playing the greatest role in collecting, organizing, consolidating, and freely disseminating invaluable information to the horological community and the public at large.
The following chart was included in Encyclopedia and Price Guide of American Pocket Watches – Volume 1 by Roy Ehrhardt. It provides some good baseline information and a starting point to appreciate the array of Seth Thomas private label pocket watches that collectors should be aware of. This list is certainly not all-inclusive.
How to Identify Seth Thomas Private Label Watches
There is frequent confusion amongst pocket watch enthusiasts, collectors, and sellers, regardless of their years of involvement, around the identity of Seth Thomas Private Label pocket watches because most of the pocket watches are not signed with the Seth Thomas name on the dial nor on the movement. Identifying the manufacturer requires knowledge of the shapes and configurations of the top plates of the many models of Seth Thomas pocket watches. Use of the Ehrhardt American (EA) Numbered Drawings permits identification of any pocket watch manufactured in America between 1830 and 1990. The shapes of a watch’s top plates and bridges, as well as the locations of plate screws, casing screws, pivots, balance wheel, regulator, and the mainspring, all contribute to accurately identifying a pocket watch movement by means of the Ehrhardt American (EA) Numbered Drawings. The EA Drawings for Seth Thomas pocket watches are numbered from EA 805 to EA 823.
Seth Thomas Watch Company (1885-1915) did not provide a model number for each of the pocket watch models that they produced. Over the years since they ceased production of Seth Thomas pocket watches (1915) several methods of referring to the individual models have evolved. For the purposes of this article I have used a similar nomenclature to Ehrhardt for referring to each Seth Thomas model. The only exception is that the model that Ehrhardt refers to as the 4-size “Model 26”; I refer to as a 6-size “Model 24”. I am not stating this to claim that my chosen nomenclature is correct/better or that other nomenclatures are wrong/worse. I am not stating a justification for using this particular nomenclature as that justification could be misconstrued as an argument for this nomenclature to become a standard. I am merely acknowledging that different nomenclatures exist and explaining what my practice for this article is. I apologize in advance if this creates discomfort for any readers. This is an ambiguity that the history of Seth Thomas Watch Company left us with, and I am comfortable with it remaining officially ambiguous.
Since Seth Thomas produced Private Label pocket watches in twenty of its twenty-four models (and I have heard rumors of at least one private label in one additional model), it would be wise to become familiar with all of the Seth Thomas movement configurations in order to identify all of the Seth Thomas private label pocket watches correctly. The task of familiarizing yourself with all twenty-four models is not as difficult as it might sound. Several of the models share patterns of plate shape and placement of their landmark features. Model 1, Model 3, Model 6, and Model 8 are all 18-size open-face oriented movements with 3/4 plates. It would be difficult to tell them apart without looking at the movement markings and serial numbers. Model 7 and Model 9 are both 18-size hunting oriented movements with 3/4 plates. It is difficult to tell the movements apart without looking at the serial numbers. One trick in telling these 18-size movements apart when the serial numbers are not visible is to look at the balance cock. The engraved pattern at the wide end of the balance cock is different between Models 1, 3, 6, and 8; and between 7 and 9; but the pattern can be the same between the opposite oriented pair of Old Eagle Models 6 and 7; or the opposite oriented pair of New Eagle Models 8 and 9. Many of the 6-size models, Model 15 – Model 19, share a common 3/4 plate shape and placement of landmark features. That leaves us with one shape for Models 1, 3, 6, and 8; one shape for Model 2; one shape for Model 4, one shape for Model 5; one shape for Models 7 and 9; one shape for Model 10; one shape for Model 11; one shape for Model 12; one shape for Model 13; one shape for Model 14; one shape for Models 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19; one shape for Model 20; one shape for Model 21; one shape for Model 22; one shape for Model 23; and one shape for Model 24. Altogether, there are only sixteen shape patterns to learn, far fewer than the thousands that we needed to learn in my college Chinese language courses.
I developed the chart presented below to help improve my own understanding of the large range of Seth Thomas private label pocket watches that were manufactured. The information needed to create this chart was drawn from several sources: American Pocket Watches: Identification and Price Guide (1999) by Roy Ehrhardt and William “Bill” Meggers; Encyclopedia and Price Guide for American Pocket Watches – Volume 1 by Roy Ehrhardt; Seth Thomas Watches 1885 – 1915 by Chris Hailey; American Clock & Watch Museum, Inc.; Complete Price Guide to Wathes (2012) by Richard E. Gilbert, Tom Engle, and Cooksey Shugart, and the Pocket Watch Database founded by Nathan Moore. A full-size chart will be included in the last two pages of this article. Please feel free to print this chart for use in your daily practice. I hope that it will be as helpful to you as it has been for me.
The Seth Thomas Private Label Pocket Watch Chart presents information about the model number of the movement, the size of the movement, how each movement is set, whether it was manufactured to Open Face or Hunting orientation, and lastly, the Ehrhardt American Movement Identification Drawing Number. The EA Number allows researchers to identify any unknown American movement by comparing the shapes of its plates and locations of other key features to drawings of every known pocket watch manufactured in America. The Seth Thomas pocket watch drawing numbers range from EA 805 through EA 823. After memorizing those shapes; you will be able to recognize any pocket watch movement manufactured by Seth Thomas regardless of the movement markings that were engraved upon it. As they were both “Century” grade, there is some lack of clarity and continuity in the accurate representation and differentiation between Model 10 and Model 12 and between Model 11 and Model 13 in the Private Label movement descriptions. I have clarified this by using direct visual observation of Seth Thomas Private Label movements and using the correct EA Number in the Seth Thomas Private Label Pocket Watch Chart. There are also some instances of incomplete or inaccurate information in the descriptions in “American Pocket Watches.” I have also clarified many of these details by using direct visual observation of Seth Thomas Private Label movements and adding this information to the chart.
In the pages following the presentation of the chart, AE Numbered Drawings and photos of examples of many of the private label watches included in the chart will be presented in the same alphabetical order found in the chart. By clicking on the name of each Private Label watch you will be brought to the Pocket Watch Database Private Label Lookup page for that particular private label. Each of the photos in this article can be enlarged by clicking directly on the image. Clicking on the serial numbers of the pocket watches presented will bring you to the Pocket Watch Database “Collection View” page for that particular watch. Space prevents the inclusion of more than the general description provided on the Seth Thomas Private Label Pocket Watch Chart. Detailed descriptions and history, when available, of each private label pocket watch, will be included in future articles dedicated to specific private label watches, such as the “Pan-American” article, or related groups of private label watches, such as the “Seth Thomas Trading Watches” article. I have included the Companion, Tourist, and Traveler on the chart because they are variants that were named in the Seth Thomas Watch Company publications and advertisements. I believe that they deserve representation here as being variants, different from the general stock pocket watches in each of their respective models.
The First and the Last
The first documented Private Label pocket watch manufactured by Seth Thomas occurred in the first run of Model 3, in 1885, which was produced before the manufacture of the first run of Model 2’s. The first known Private Label was “A. Michaal” with serial number 10903. Photographs of this pocket watch are presented in this article; not because it is collectible, but because it is the first known Seth Thomas Private Label pocket watch.
The last known Private Label pocket watch manufactured by Seth Thomas occurred in the final run of Model 12. The last known Private Label was a “Republic U.S.A.” with serial number 4068501. Photographs of this pocket watch are presented in this article, not because it is collectible, but because it is the last known Seth Thomas Private Label pocket watch to be produced and has the highest serial number of any known surviving pocket watch manufactured by Seth Thomas.
The Seth Thomas Private Label Gallery on the Pocket Watch Database can be accessed with this link.
Photographs of Selected Seth Thomas Private Label Pocket Watches
There are frequent variations in the finish patterns within the production population of a given Private Label pocket watch. Sometimes this is done to highlight differences in model numbers, jewel counts, grades, or other features, but other times, there is no obvious feature-related reason for the variation in the finish patterns.
Where it was not possible to photograph a specimen of any particular version of a private label for inclusion in this article, links are provided to view a specimen through the Pocket Watch Database when a specimen exists there.
Detailed descriptions and history, when available, of each private label pocket watch will be included in future articles dedicated to specific private label watches, such as the “Pan-American” article, or related groups of private label watches, such as the “Seth Thomas Trading Watches” article.
I have included the Companion, Tourist, and Traveler on the chart because they are variants that were named in the Seth Thomas Watch Company publications and advertisements. I believe that they deserve representation here as being variants, different from the general stock pocket watches in each of their respective models.
Adonis U.S.A.
EA 821 – Adonis U.S.A. – 6-size – Model 18 – Serial Number 991674 – 7 Jewels
EA 821 – Adonis U.S.A. – 6-size – Model 18 – Serial Number 4013768 – 7 Jewels